In Situ Observations




The Scripps Coastal Processes Group develops field-calibrated numerical models of wave-driven beach processes. Goals are to observe and model (1) beach evolution at time scales from hours to decades (e.g., individual storms, annual cycles, seasonal El Niño, sea level rise) at space scales from individual beaches to a littoral cell and (2) wave runup and overtopping. Observations include in situ measurements of waves, currents, runup, tide, temperature, conductivity, salinity, and surface bottom elevation.  Instrumentation includes pressure sensors, current meters, sonic altimeters, and conductivity-temperature-depth (CTD) probes deployed using divers, boats, bull dozers, high powered water jets, and shovels.

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