Recent Publications


Ludka, B.C., A.P. Young, R.T. Guza, W.C. O’Reilly, M.A. Merrifield. (2022). Alongshore variability of a southern California beach, before and after nourishment. Coastal Engineering, 104223. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2022.104223

Rijnsdorp, D., Smit, P., & Guza, R. (2022). A nonlinear, non-dispersive energy balance for surfzone waves: Infragravity wave dynamics on a sloping beach. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 944, A45. doi: 10.1017/jfm.2022.512

Blenkinsopp, C.E., Bayle, P.M., Martins, K., Foss, O.W., Almeida, L-P., Kaminsky, G.M., Schimmels, S., and Matsumoto, H. (2022) Wave runup on composite beaches and dynamic cobble berm revetments. Coastal Engineering, 104148. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2022.104148

Matsumoto, H., A.P. Young, J.E. Carilli, (2022). Modeling the relative influence of environmental controls on marine terrace widths. Geomorphology. doi: 10.1016/j.geomorph.2021.107986

Henderson, C. S., Fiedler, J. W., Merrifield, M. A., Guza, R. T., and Young, A. P. (2022). Phase resolving runup and overtopping field validation of SWASH. Coastal Engineering, 104128. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2022.104128

Lange, A.M.Z. Lange, Julia W. Fiedler, Janet M. Becker, Mark A. Merrifield, R.T. Guza. (2022). Estimating runup with limited bathymetry. Coastal Engineering. 172. 104055. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.104055

Swirad, Z. M., & Young, A. P. (2022). CliffDelineaTool v1.2.0: an algorithm for identifying coastal cliff base and top positions. Geoscientific Model Development, 15(4), 1499–1512. doi: 10.5194/gmd-15-1499-2022


Anderson, D. L., Ruggiero, P., Mendez, F., J., Barnard, P. L., Erikson, L. H., O’Neill, A. C., et al. (2021). Projecting climate dependent coastal flood risk with a hybrid statistical dynamical model. Earth's Future, 9, e2021EF002285. doi: 10.1029/2021EF002285

Fiedler, J. W., Kim, L., Grenzeback, R. L., Young, A. P. and Merrifield, M. A. (2021).Enhanced Surf Zone and Wave Runup Observations with Hovering Drone-Mounted Lidar. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology 38(11), 1967-1978. doi: 10.1175/JTECH-D-21-0027.1

Carmichael, J. (2021), Weighing inputs of waves and precipitation to coastal erosion, Eos, 102, doi: 10.1029/2021EO154828

Merrifield, M.A., M. Johnson, R.T. Guza, J.W. Fiedler, A.P. Young, C.S. Henderson, A.M.Z. Lange, W.C. O’Reilly, B.C. Ludka, M. Okihiro, K. Pappas, L. Engeman, J. Behrens, E. Terrill (2021), An early warning system for wave-driven coastal flooding at Imperial Beach, CA. Natural Hazards. doi: 10.1007/s11069-021-04790-x

Young, A.P., R.T. Guza, H. Matsumoto, M.A. Merrifield, W.C. O'Reilly, Z.M. Swirad (2021), Three years of weekly observations of coastal cliff erosion by waves and rainfall. Geomorphology, 375. doi: 10.1016/j.geomorph.2020.107545 

de Schipper, M.A., B.C. Ludka, B. Raubenheimer, A.P. Luijendijk, T.A. Schlacher (2021), Beach nourishment has complex implications for the future of sandy shores. Nature Reviews Earth & Environment, 2(1). doi: 10.1038/s43017-020-00109-9


Matsumoto, H., A.P. Young, R.T. Guza (2020), Cusp and mega cusp observations on a mixed sediment beach. Earth and Space Science, 7(10). doi: 10.1029/2020EA001366

Fiedler, J.W., A. Young, B.C. Ludka, W.C. O'Reilly, C. Henderson, M. Merrifield, R.T. Guza (2020), Predicting site-specific storm wave run-up. Natural Hazards, 104(1). doi: 10.1007/s11069-020-04178-3

Cagigal, L., A. Rueda, D. Anderson, P. Ruggiero, M.A. Merrifield, J. Montano, G. Coco, F.J. Mendez (2020), A multivariate, stochastic, climate-based wave emulator for shoreline change modelling. Ocean Modelling, 154. doi: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2020.101695

Matsumoto, H., A.P. Young, R.T. Guza (2020), Observations of surface cobbles at two southern California beaches. Marine Geology, 419. doi: 10.1016/j.margeo.2019.106049

Kalligeris, N., P.B. Smit, B.C. Ludka, R.T. Guza, T.W. Gallien (2020), Calibration and assessment of process-based numerical models for beach profile evolution in southern California. Coastal Engineering, 158. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103650

Montaño, J., G. Coco, J. Antolinez, T. Beuzen, K. Bryan, L. Cagigal, B. Castelle, M. Davidson, E. Goldstein, R. Ibaceta, D. Idier, B. Ludka, S. Masoud-Ansari, F. Mendez, A. Murray, N. Plant, K. Ratliff, A. Robinet, A. Rueda, N. Senechal, J. Simmons, K. Splinter, S. Stephens, I. Townend, S. Vitousek, K. Vos (2020), Blind testing of shoreline evolution models. Scientific Reports, 10(1). doi: 10.1038/s41598-020-59018-y


Ludka, B.C., R.T. Guza, W.C. O’Reilly, M.A. Merrifield, R.E. Flick, A.S. Bak, T. Hesser, R. Bucciarelli, C. Olfe, B. Woodward, W. Boyd, K. Smith, M. Okihiro, R. Grenzeback, L. Parry, G. Boyd (2019), Sixteen years of bathymetry and waves at San Diego beaches. Scientific Data, 6(1). doi: 10.1038/s41597-019-0167-6

Vittori, G., P. Blondeaux, G. Coco, R.T. Guza (2019), Subharmonic edge wave excitation by narrow-band, random incident waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 868. doi: 10.1017/jfm.2019.214

Fiedler, J., P. Smit, K. Brodie, J. McNinch, R.T. Guza (2019), The offshore boundary condition in surf zone modeling. Coastal Engineering, 143. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2018.10.014

Crosby, S.C., N. Kumar, W.C. O’Reilly, R.T. Guza (2019), Regional swell transformation by backwards ray tracing and SWAN. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 36(2). doi: 10.1175/JTECH-D-18-0123.1


Young, A.P. (2018), Decadal-scale coastal cliff retreat in southern and central California. Geomorphology, 300. doi: 10.1016/j.geomorph.2017.10.010

Young, A.P., R.E. Flick, T.W. Gallien, S.N. Giddings, R.T. Guza, M. Harvey, L. Lenain, B.C. Ludka, W.K. Melville, W.C. OReilly (2018), Southern California coastal response to the 2015-2016 El Niño. Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface, 123(11). doi: 10.1029/2018JF004771

Matsumoto, H., A.P. Young (2018), Automated cobble mapping of a mixed sand-cobble beach using a mobile LiDAR system. Remote Sensing, 10(8). doi: 10.3390/rs10081253

Ludka, B.C., R.T. Guza, W.C. O'Reilly (2018), Nourishment evolution and impacts at four Southern California beaches: A sand volume analysis. Coastal Engineering, 136. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2018.02.003

Fiedler, J., P. Smit, K. Brodie, J. McNinch, R.T. Guza (2018), Numerical modeling of wave runup on steep and mildly sloping natural beaches. Coastal Engineering, 131. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2017.09.004

Fiedler, J. (2018). Wave runup and infragravity energy in the surf zone. UC San Diego. ProQuest ID: Kannberg_ucsd_0033D_17317. Merritt ID: ark:/13030/m5hx6944. Retrieved from


Crosby, S.C., B.D. Cornuelle, W.C. O'Reilly, R.T. Guza (2017), Assimilating global wave model predictions and deep-water wave observations in nearshore swell predictions. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 34(8). doi: 10.1175/JTECH-D-17-0003.1

Barnard, P.L., D. Hoover, D.M. Hubbard, A. Snyder, B.C. Ludka, J. Allan, G.M. Kaminsky, P. Ruggiero, T. Gallien, L. Gabel, D. McCandless, H.M. Weiner, N. Cohn, D.L. Anderson, K.A. Serafin (2017), Extreme oceanographic forcing and coastal response due to the 2015-2016 El Niño. Nature Communications, 8(1). doi: 10.1038/ncomms14365

Cuomo, G., R.T. Guza (2017), Infragravity seiches in a small harbor. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 143(5). doi: 10.1061/(asce)ww.1943-5460.0000392

Crosby, S.C. (2017). Predicting coastal waves with buoy observations and global model output, a Southern California case study. UC San Diego. ProQuest ID: Crosby_ucsd_0033D_16252. Merritt ID: ark:/13030/m55q9mkn. Retrieved from


Young, A.P., R.T. Guza, W.C. O’Reilly, O. Burvingt, R.E. Flick (2016), Observations of coastal cliff base waves, sand levels, and cliff top shaking. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 41(11). doi: 10.1002/esp.3928

O’Reilly, W.C., C.B. Olfe, J. Thomas, R. Seymour, R.T. Guza (2016), The California coastal wave monitoring and prediction system. Coastal Engineering, 116. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.06.005

Ludka, B.C., T. Gallien, S.C. Crosby, R.T. Guza (2016), Mid-El Niño erosion at nourished and unnourished Southern California beaches. Geophysical Research Letters, 43(9). doi: 10.1002/2016GL068612

Gallien, T.W. (2016), Validated coastal flood modeling at Imperial Beach, California: Comparing total water level, empirical and numerical overtopping methodologies. Coastal Engineering, 111. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.01.014

Doria, A., R.T. Guza, W.C. O’Reilly, M.L. Yates (2016), Observations and modeling of San Diego beaches during El Niño. Continental Shelf Research, 124. doi: 10.1016/j.csr.2016.05.008

Crosby, S.C., W.C. O’Reilly, R.T. Guza (2016), Modeling long-period swell in Southern California: Practical boundary conditions from buoy observations and global wave model predictions. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 33(8). doi: 10.1175/JTECH-D-16-0038.1

Ludka, B.C. (2016), Wave-driven beach sand level changes in southern California. UC San Diego. ProQuest ID: Ludka_ucsd_0033D_15849. Merritt ID: ark:/13030/m5518kt3. Retrieved from


Fiedler, J.W., K.L. Brodie, J.E. McNinch, R.T. Guza (2015), Observations of runup and energy flux on a low-slope beach with high-energy, long-period ocean swell. Geophysical Research Letters, 42(22). doi: 10.1002/2015GL066124

Gallien, T.W., W.C. O'Reilly, R.E. Flick, R.T. Guza (2015), Geometric properties of anthropogenic flood control berms on southern California beaches. Ocean & Coastal Management, 105. doi: 10.1016/j.ocecoaman.2014.12.014

Ludka, B.C., R.T. Guza, W.C. O'Reilly, M.L. Yates (2015), Field evidence of beach profile evolution toward equilibrium. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 120(11). doi: 10.1002/2015JC010893


Gallien, T.W., B.F. Sanders, R.E. Flick (2014), Urban coastal flood prediction: Integrating wave overtopping, flood defenses and drainage. Coastal Engineering, 91. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2014.04.007