Recent Publications

2015 - 2020

Matsumoto, H., Young, A.P., Guza, R.T. (2020), Cusps and mega cusps on a mixed sediment beach, Earth and Space Science. DOI:10.1029/2020EA001366.

de Schipper, M. A., B. C. Ludka, T. A. Schlacher, B. Raubenheimer, A. P. Luijendijk (2020), Beach nourishment has complex implications for the future of sandy shores. accepted to Nature Reviews Earth & Environment.

J.W. Fiedler, A. Young, B.C. Ludka, W.C. O'Reilly, C. Henderson, M. Merrifield and R. T. Guza (2020), Predicting site-specific storm wave run-up. Nat Hazards.

Cagigal, L., A. Rueda, D. Anderson, P. Ruggiero, M. A. Merrifield, J. Montano, G. Coco, and F. J. Mendez (2020), A multivariate, stochastic, climate-based wave emulator for shoreline change modelling, Ocean Modelling, 154, 101695

Matsumoto, H., A. P. Young, R. T. Guza (2020), Observations of surface cobbles at two southern California beaches, Marine Geology, Volume 419, 106049, ISSN 0025-3227,

Kalligeris, N., P.B. Smit, B.C. Ludka, R.T. Guza, T.W. Gallien (2020), Calibration and assessment of process-based numerical models to predict beach profile evolution in southern California, Coastal Engineering, Volume 158, 2020, 103650, ISSN 0378-3839,

Montaño, J., G. Coco, J. Antolinez, T. Beuzen, K. Bryan, L. Cagigal, B. Castelle, M. Davidson, E. Goldstein, R. Ibaceta, D. Idier, B. Ludka, S. Masoud-Ansari, F. Mendez, A. Murray, N. Plant, K. Ratliff, A. Robinet, A. Rueda, N. Senechal, J. Simmons, K. Splinter, S. Stephens, I. Townend, S. Vitousek, and K. Vos, Blind testing of shoreline evolution models.  Scientific Reports (2020), in press.

Ludka, B. C., R. T. Guza, W. C. O’Reilly, M. A. Merrifield, R. E. Flick, S. Bak, T. Hesser, R. Bucciarelli, C. Olfe, B. Woodward, W. Boyd, K. Smith, M. Okihiro, R. Grenzeback, L. Parry, and G. Boyd (2019), Sixteen years of bathymetry and waves at San Diego Beaches, Scientific Data, 6:161,

Vittori, G., P. Blondeaux, G. Coco, and R. T. Guza (2019), Subharmonic edge wave excitation by narrow-band, random incident waves, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 868, R4., doi:10.1017/jfm.2019.214.

Fiedler, J., P. Smit, K. Brodie, J. McNinch, R.T. Guza (2019). The offshore boundary condition in surf zone modeling, Coastal Engineering, 143, 12-20, ISSN 0378-3839,

Fiedler, J. (2018). Wave runup and infragravity energy in the surf zone. UC San Diego. ProQuest ID: Kannberg_ucsd_0033D_17317. Merritt ID: ark:/13030/m5hx6944. Retrieved from

Crosby, S.C., N. Kumar, W.C. O’Reilly, and R.T. Guza (2019), Regional swell transformation by backwards ray tracing and SWAN. J. Atmos. Oceanic Technol.,

Young, A.P. (2018), Decadal-scale coastal cliff retreat in southern and central California. Geomorphology, 300, 164-175,

Young, A.P., R.E. Flick, T.W. Gallien, S.N. Giddings, R.T. Guza, M. Harvey, L. Lenain, B.C. Ludka, W.K. Melville, W.C. OReilly (2018), Southern California Coastal Response to the 2015-16 El Niño, Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface, 123:3069-3083, 10.1029/2018JF004771.

Matsumoto, H. and A. P. Young (2018) Automated Cobble Mapping of a Mixed Sand-Cobble Beach Using a Mobile LiDAR System. Remote Sens.10, 1253.

Ludka, B. C, R.T. Guza, W.C. O'Reilly (2018), Nourishment evolution and impacts at four southern California beaches: A sand volume analysis, Coastal Engineering, Volume 136, Pages 96-105, ISSN 0378-3839,

Fiedler, J., P. Smit, K. Brodie, J. McNinch, and R.T. Guza (2018), Numerical modeling of wave runup on steep and mildly sloping natural beaches. Coastal Engineering. 131, 106-113,

Crosby, S.C., B. D. Cornuelle, W. C. O'Reilly, and R. T. Guza (2017), Assimilating Global Wave Model Predictions and Deep-Water Wave Observations in Nearshore Swell Predictions, Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 34, 1823-1836, doi: 10.1175/JTECH-D-17-0003.1.

Barnard, P. L., Hoover, D., Hubbard, D. M., Snyder, A., Ludka, B. C., Kaminsky, G. M., Ruggiero, P., Gallien, T., Gabel, L., McCandless, D., Weiner, H. M., Cohn, N., Anderson, D. L., Serafin, K. A. (2017), Extreme oceanographic forcing and coastal response due to the 2015-2016 El Niño. Nature Communications, 8, 14365, doi:10.1038/ncomms14365.

Crosby, S. C. (2017). Predicting coastal waves with buoy observations and global model output, a Southern California case study. UC San Diego. ProQuest ID: Crosby_ucsd_0033D_16252. Merritt ID: ark:/13030/m55q9mkn. Retrieved from

Young, A.P., R. T. Guza, W. C. O’Reilly, O. Burvingt, and R. E. Flick (2016), Observations of coastal cliff base waves, sand levels, and cliff top shaking, Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 41, 1564– 1573 (2016), doi:10.1002/esp.3928.

O’Reilly, W. C., Olfe, C. B., Thomas, J., Seymour, R., and Guza, R. (2016), The California coastal wave monitoring and prediction system. Coastal Engineering, 116, 118–132, doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.06.005.

Ludka, B.C., T. Gallien, S.C. Crosby, R.T. Guza (2016), Mid-El Niño erosion at nourished and unnourished southern California Beaches, Geophys. Res. Lett., 43(9), 4510-4516, doi: 10.1002/2016GL068612.

Ludka, B. C. (2016). Wave-driven beach sand level changes in southern California. UC San Diego. ProQuest ID: Ludka_ucsd_0033D_15849. Merritt ID: ark:/13030/m5518kt3. Retrieved from

Gallien, T.W. (2016), Validated coastal flood modeling at Imperial Beach, California: Comparing total water level, empirical and numerical overtopping methodologies, Coastal Engineering, 111, 95-104, doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.01.014

Doria, A, R.T. Guza, W.C. O’Reilly, M.L. Yates (2016), Observations and modeling of San Diego beaches during El Niño, Continental Shelf Research, 124, 153-164, doi: 10.1016/j.csr.2016.05.008.

Crosby, S. C., W. C. O’Reilly, and R. T. Guza (2016), Modeling long period swell in southern California: practical boundary conditions from buoy observations and global wave model predictions. J. Atmospheric and Oceanic Tech., 33, 1673-1690, doi 10.1175/JTECH-D-16-0038.1.

Ludka, B.C., R.T. Guza, W.C. O'Reilly, and M.L. Yates (2015), Field evidence of beach profile evolution toward equilibrium, J. Geophys. Res. Oceans, 120, 7574–7597, doi: 10.1002/2015JC010893.

Gallien, T.W., W.C. O'Reilly, R.E. Flick, R.T. Guza (2015), Geometric properties of anthropogenic flood control berms on southern California beaches, Ocean & Coastal Management, 105, 35-47, doi: 10.1016/j.ocecoaman.2014.12.014

Fiedler, J.W., K.L. Brodie, J.E. McNinch, and R.T. Guza (2015), Observations of runup and energy flux on a low-slope beach with high-energy, long-period ocean swell, Geophys. Res. Lett., 42, 9933–9941, doi: 10.1002/2015GL066124.